In a world of fast fashion and fleeting trends, our brand stands as a beacon of change. During a transformative journey to Kenya in 2022, I was struck by the harsh realities of fast fashion in Nairobi’s slums. Over 900 million pieces of second-hand clothing flood into Kenya annually, with up to 40% ending up as waste in massive landfills like Dandora.
The Hidden Crisis of Synthetic Clothing Waste
Our recent report exposes the hidden export of plastic waste to the Global South, driven by the growing production of cheap, synthetic clothing by brands in the Global North. Despite global restrictions on plastic waste export, a staggering volume of used clothing shipped to Kenya is waste synthetic clothing. This toxic influx creates severe environmental and community consequences. Estimates suggest that in recent years, over 300 million items of damaged or unsellable synthetic – or plastic – fibre clothing are exported to Kenya annually. These items often end up dumped, landfilled, or burned, exacerbating the plastic pollution crisis.
The Rise of Synthetic Fibres and Fast Fashion
As clothing production has skyrocketed over the past two decades, a growing proportion of garments are made from cheap synthetic fibres. Synthetics now account for 69% of all fibre production and have become the backbone of fast fashion. This reliance on synthetic materials has turned the Global North's trade of used clothing into a pressure-release valve to manage the enormous waste problem created by fast fashion.
A 2017 report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, with modeling by McKinsey, estimates that while 73% of waste clothing is directly landfilled or incinerated, 87% of all clothing material is eventually lost to the system in some way when overstock liquidation and process losses are included. Shockingly, only 1% to 0.1% of clothing is turned into new clothing through closed-loop recycling. This means that 99% of clothing waste remains in the system, often in the form of rags, stuffing, and insulation, which are eventually discarded as well.
Kenya: A Dumping Ground for the Global North
In Kenya, this waste is not just an environmental issue but a humanitarian one. The influx of synthetic clothing clogs local markets, with much of it being worthless and ultimately contributing to massive landfill sites like Dandora. Here, clothes are stacked up to four stories high, left to be burned or washed away into local rivers, causing further pollution and health hazards for nearby communities.
Moving Towards Sustainable Solutions
Addressing this crisis requires global awareness and local action. By understanding the impact of fast fashion and supporting sustainable practices, we can reduce waste and promote a healthier planet. Initiatives that transform discarded garments into valuable products are essential in this fight.
Take Action:
Support brands that prioritise sustainability and ethical production.
Choose quality over quantity to reduce clothing waste.
Stay informed about the environmental impact of your fashion choices.
By making conscious decisions, we can all contribute to a more sustainable future.
Reference - changingmarkets.org